"He's her lobster!"

Any other 90's kids remember that episode of Friends? Rachel and Ross? No? Apparently lobsters mate for life. Awwwww. Okay, moving on. 

Another Christmas present. One of my best friends that used to be my room mate (the same girl I made the owl for, actually), recently moved out with my other best friend room mate that got married and now has her own house. She's a quirky one and entertainingly random. She has a lobster shirt, a lobster pillow, and might even have a lobster blanket. And I have no idea why. So I decided to add to her lobster collection while throwing in the cute meaning of us being friends forever and that I love her (hence the adorable heart shaped claws). Awww. 

Anyway, this heart stealing little guy would make an adorable Valentine's Day present for YOUR lobster. (hint hint!) 

Love Lobster Amigurumi

Yarn: worsted weight red yarn; I used Red Heart.

Hook: G or H, depending on your tightness of stitches. If you’re a relaxed stitcher, I would go with G. I’m an aggressive stitcher, so I used an H.

Other materials: stuffing, buttons or whatever you prefer to make eyes, darning needle and embroidery needle with thread (if you’re using buttons). Sewing pins and a stitch marker make this MUCH easier.

Lobster body

Row 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in first st*

Row 2: 2 sc in each st around

Row 3: * 2sc, 1 sc in next st * repeat around

Row 4: * 2 sc, 1 sc in next 2 sts * repeat around

Row 5: *2 sc, 1 sc in next 3 sts * repeat around

Row 6: * 2 sc, 1 sc in next 4 sts * repeat around

Rows 7-17: sc around

Row 18: * sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts * repeat around

Row 19: sc around

Row 20: * sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts * repeat around

Rows 21-24: sc around

Row 25: * sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts * repeat around

Rows 26-28: sc around

Row 29: * 2sc in first st, sc in next st * repeat around

Rows 30-32: sc around. Stuff your lobster!

Row 33: Pinch the circle flat so that your starting stitch is on the right and the stitches are lined up so you can crochet the top and bottom together into a line. For the next stitches, you are going to put your hook through the top stitch AND bottom stitch as one, so your lobster will be crocheted shut.

Skip 2 stitches, 5 dc in 3^rd stitch. Skip 1 stitch, slip stitch in next stitch.

Skip 1 stitch, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 stitch, slip stitch in next stitch.

Skip 1 stitch, 5 dc in next stitch, skip 1 stitch, slip stitch in last stitch. You should have formed 3 shell stitches and the tail of your lobster should be flat. Bind off and hide yarn tail.

Heart-shaped claws

For the heart-shaped claws, you are going to make four “bumps” for the tops of the hearts. So there are two for each claw. For each claw, one “bump” will have a tail of yarn and the other bump will remain attached to your working yarn while you sew the first bump to the active one. So you will make one bump, leave a tail and cut the yarn, and then make a second one, leave attached, use tail from the first one to sew to the second one, and then return to your active yarn to finish crocheting around both bumps to complete the heart. I hope this makes sense!

Row 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in first ch

Row 2: 2 sc in each st around

Row 3: * 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next st * repeat around

Rows 4 and 5: sc around

(If you’re working on your first bump, BO and leave a tail. If the second one, leave the active yarn attached.)

Using the tail of your first bump, line up the end of the first bump with the last active stitch of the second bump. Whip stitch 4 stitches together and weave in yarn tail. Return to your active yarn.

Row 6: sc one row around both circles, forming one big circle to work with. The number of stitches you create will probably vary. I think I ended up with 33. It’s okay if yours is different, the end product will still look the same.

Rows 7 and 8: sc around

Row 9: * sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts * repeat around, if you have remaining stitches just sc until the end

Row 10: sc around

Row 11: * sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts * repeat around, again sc in any remaining stitches

Row 12: * sc2tog, sc in next st * repeat around, sc in remaining stitches if any

Row 13: sc around. Stuff your claw now, because it’s going to get tight after this!

Row 14: sc2tog all around

Rows 15 and 16: sc around

BO, leaving tail to use to sew claws to the sides of the lobster’s body.

I sewed on my button eyes first so I could position the claws on the body in relation to them. I used sewing pins to position the claws and then used the tail of yarn to whipstitch them onto the body. Enjoy!! 

Snowman Amigurumi

This little lady was a Christmas present for my mom for Christmas. She collects anything snowman. She’s also one of those people who appreciates the little things that took time and not money. I thought this fit the bill quite nicely.

Yarn: worsted weight in white (I used a bit of a skein of Caron One Pound that I had lying around)

For the hat and scarf – I used a shiny pink worsted weight yarn that was on sale years ago at AC Moore. It’s similar to Simply Soft. I thought the difference in texture would really make the snowman’s accessories pop.

Hook: G or H, depending on how tightly you crochet. I use an H because my stitches are tight anyway, but if you’re relaxed, I would recommend a G.

Other materials: Stuffing, darning needle, buttons for the eyes, and thread to sew on the buttons.

Row 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in first ch. Join or insert stitch marker to keep track of your rows.

Row 2: 2 sc in each st around.

Row 3: *2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next st * repeat around.

Row 4: *2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 2 sts * repeat around.

Row 5: * 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 3 sts * repeat around.

Rows 6 – 11: sc around.

Row 12: * sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts * repeat around.

Row 13: * sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts * repeat around.

Row 14: * 2 sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts * repeat around.

Row 15: * 2 sc in first st, sc in next 3 sts * repeat around.

Row 16: * 2 sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts * repeat around.

Rows 17 – 25: sc around.

(Around this row, I would start packing the body with stuffing.)

Row 26: * sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts * repeat around.

Row 27: * sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts * repeat around.

Row 28: * sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts * repeat around.

Row 29: * sc2tog, sc in next st * repeat around.

Row 30: * sc2tog * repeat around. Leave tail of yarn. Use darning needle to run yarn tail through remaining stitches and sew shut. I would recommend not sewing the button eyes on just yet. I waited until I was finished the hat and scarf so I could try them on the body to see exactly where the eyes should be.

Snowman’s Hat (with the shiny pink yarn)

Row 1: Ch 3, 9 dc in first ch, join.

Row 2: Ch 2, 1 dc in same st as ch, 2 dc in each st around. Join.

Row 3: Ch 2, 1 dc in same st as ch, 1 dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st* around. Join.

Row 4: Ch 2, dc around. Join.

Row 5: Ch 2, dc around. Join.

Row 6: Turn the hat so you’re stitching in the opposite direction (just like when you’re doing rows on a regular pattern rather than circular, so the front of these stitches will be on the inside of the hat). Ch 2, dc in back loops all around. Join and bind off. Flip this row up to create the brim of the hat.

Snowman’s Scarf (with the shiny pink yarn)

Row 1: Ch 7, dc in 3^rd ch from hook, dc across.

Rows 2 - ?: Turn, ch 2, dc across. I don’t actually know how many rows I did, I just kept trying it on the snowman until I could tie it around his neck and it hung down nicely.

Let your imagination run wild with this one. Use this simple template to create all kinds of unique snowmen! 

Owl Amigurumi for Kim =)

Here is a little owl that I whipped up as a Christmas present for my truly unique and quirky friend Kim. This little guy only took 2 days to make!

Crochet Owl Pattern

The body of this owl is worked from the bottom up. It starts as a circle and is crocheted in rounds. At the top you will sew the opening together flat to create owl-like “ears.”

Yarn:

Caron One Pounder in “Nutmeg”

Small amounts of white, turquoise, and dark brown

Hook: H 5.0 mm (for worsted weight yarn – stitches need to be solid!)

Stuffing, Darning needle

Owl Body

Row 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in first ch (6 st)

Row 2: 2 sc in each st around (12 st)

Row 3: *sc, 2sc in next st* around (18 st)

Row 4: *sc in 2 sts, 2 sc in 3^rd st* around (24 st)

Row 5: *sc in 3 sts, 2 sc in 4^th st* around (30 st)

Row 6: *sc in 4 sts, 2 sc in 5^th st* around (36 st)

Row 7-24: sc around

-this is the end (or top) of the body but DO NOT end yarn!!! Leave yarn attached while you make and attach the eyes, belly, and wings. By doing this BEFORE you stuff and sew the body, you will save yourself a lot of trouble with sewing on parts and hiding ends.-

Owl Eyes (make 2)

Row 1: with white yarn, ch 2, 6 sc in first ch. (6 sts)

Row 2: 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)

Row 3: *sc, 2 sc in next st* around (18 sts)

End, leaving a long tail to sew eye onto owl.

Using a darning needle and turquoise yarn, embroider middle of eye over first round of stitches.

Owl Beak (dark brown yarn)

Row 1: Ch 3, skip 3^rd ch and sc in 2 first chains. Turn.

Row 2: ch 1, 1 decrease single crochet. Tie off, leave a small tail to sew beak onto owl.

Owl Wings (dark brown yarn) (make 2)

Row 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in first ch. (6 sts)

Row 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Row 3: sc around

Row 4: *sc, 2sc in next st* around. (18 sts) end, leaving long tail to sew to owl.

After sewing on all the pieces, stuff the owl.

Replace hook back into loop of nutmeg yarn of top of owl that wasn’t ended. Pinch the top of the owl together so that the hook is on the right hand side and the stitches on each side line up. You should be able to count about 17 stitches across.

Sc across 3 stitches. On the 4^th and 5^th stitches, do a single crochet decrease. Do the same on the 5^th and 4^th stitch from the end of the row. End and sew in the end.

Merry Christmas and happy crocheting! =]

Shelly the Egg Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Supplies:

Small amount of worsted weight yarn in your choice of color (I used Lion Brand Cotton in white)

Crochet hook, size F if you tend to have loose tension, G or H if you crochet tightly

Black embroidery thread and small amount of pink felt

Tapestry needle and embroidery needle

*This pattern is worked in the round. It is your choice to join or not to join your rounds. To join, simply finish the row, slipstitch to the first stitch that row, and chain one to begin next row. If you are not joining, do the first stitch of the next row, and use a stitch marker to mark it, so you don’t lose your place. ** indicate to repeat instructions all across that row.

Row 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 1^st ch (6 st)

Row 2: 2sc in each st around (12 st)

Row 3: *sc, 2sc in next stitch* around (18 st)

Row 4: *sc in 2 st, 2sc in 3^rd st* around (24 st)

Row 5: *sc in 3 st, 2sc in 4^th st* around (30 st)

Row 6: sc around

Row 7: sc around

Row 8: *sc in 4 sts, 2sc in 5^th st* around (36 st)

Rows 9-12: sc around

Row 13: *sc in 4 sts, sc2tog (a decrease) in 5^th st* (30 st)

Rows 14 and 15: sc around

Row 16: *sc in 3 st, sc2tog in 4^th st* (24 st)

Rows 17 and 18: sc around ***now would be a good time to start stuffing!***

Row 19: *sc in 2 st, sc2tog in 3^rd st* (18 st)

Row 20: *sc, sc2tog* (12 st)

Row 21: sc2tog all around. Finish off, use tapestry needle and weave tail in and out of remaining stitches and pull closed. Weave end through stitches on body to hide.

Tips for Embroidering the Face:

·        The backstitch would be easiest to make the face. When you start, leave a tail sticking out of where you first inserted the needle. When you’re finished embroidering the face, end on the same point as where you started. Tie the two ends in a knot, and use a super small crochet hook (like a D) to pull the two ends into the body to hide.

·        Use a button to trace round circles on the pink felt. I just simply glued them onto the face; Elmer’s glue works surprisingly well if you let it sit completely still until it’s all dried.

Dachshund Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Supplies

One skein Red Heart Super Saver in Black

Small amount of Red Heart Super Saver in Warm Brown

Size F or G Crochet hook (depending on your tension)

Polyfil or other type of stuffing

Tapestry needle

Small amounts of black and white felt

Black embroidery floss and embroidery needle

All parts of this pattern are worked in the round. It is your choice whether to join your rounds or to work in a continuous spiral. I highly recommend a stitch marker (this can be a safety pin, a swivel clip keychain, or just a piece of scrap yarn) to keep track of your rows if you work in a spiral.

Dachshund Body (in black)

Row 1: Ch 2, 6sc in first ch. (6 sc)

Row 2: 2sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Row 3: *sc, 2sc in next st* around. (18 sc)

Row 4: *sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in 3^rd* around. (24 sc)

Row 5: *sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in 4^th* around. (30 sc)

Row 6: *sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in 5^th* around. (36 sc)

Rows 7-40: sc around. (36 sc)

Row 41: *sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog* around. (30 sc)

Row 42: *sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog* around. (24 sc)

Row 43: *sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog* around. (18 sc)

Row 44: *sc, sc2tog* around. (12 sc)

Row 45: sc2tog around. (6 sc)

Finish off, weave tail through remaining stitches and pull closed. Weave tail through surrounding stitches to secure and hide.

Dachshund Front Legs (Make Two)

Row 1 (starting with “warm brown”): Ch 2, 6 sc in first ch. (6 sc)

Row 2: 2sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Row 3: *sc, 2sc in next st* around. (18 sc)

Rows 4-6: sc around. (18 sc)

Row 7 (switch to black): sc around. (18 sc)

Rows 8-11: sc around. (18 sc)

Finish off, leaving long enough tail to sew to body.

Dachshund’s Back Legs (Make Two)

Row 1 (starting with warm brown): Ch 2, 6sc in first ch. (6 sc)

Row 2: 2sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Row 3: *sc, 2sc in next st* around. *(18 sc)

Rows 4-6: sc around. (18 sc)

Row 7 (switch to black): sc around. (18 sc)

Row 8: 2sc in first 9 sts, sc in remaining 9 sts. (27 sc)

Rows 9-11: sc around. (27 sc)

Finish off, leaving long enough tail to sew to body.

Dachshund’s Head

Row 1: Ch 2, 6sc in first ch. (6 sc)

Row 2: 2sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Row 3: *sc, 2sc in next st* around. (18 sc)

Row 4: *sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in 3^rd st* around. (24 sc)

Row 5: *sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in 4^th st* around. (30 sc)

Row 6: sc around. (30 sc)

Row 7: *sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in 5^th st* around. (36 sc)

Rows 8-14: sc around. (36 sc)

Row 15: *sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog* around. (30 sc)

Row 16 and 17: sc around. (30 sc)

Finish off, leaving long enough tail to sew to body.

Dachshund’s Snout

Row 1 (starting with warm brown): Ch 2, 6sc in first ch. (6 sc)

Row 2: 2sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Row 3: sc around. (12 sc)

Row 4: *sc, 2sc in next st* around. (18 sc)

Row 5: sc around. (18 sc)

Row 6 (switch to black): sc around. (18 sc)

Row 7: sc around. (18 sc)

Row 8: *sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in 3^rd st* around. (24 sc)

Row 9: sc around. (24 sc)

Finish off, leaving long enough tail to sew to head.

Dachshund’s Ears (Make Two)

Row 1: Ch 2, 6sc in first ch. (6 sc)

Row 2: 2sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Row 3 and 4: sc around. (12 sc)

Row 5: *sc, 2sc in next st* around. (18 sc)

Rows 6-13: sc around. (18 sc)

Slip stitch to next st and end. Leave long enough tail to sew to head. Flatten before attaching to head (refer to picture).

Dachshund’s Tail

Row 1: ch 2, 6sc in first ch. (6 sc)

Rows 2-10: sc around. (6 sc)

Slip stitch to next st, finish off, leaving long enough tail to sew to body. (*Hint: to stuff tail, try using a thin pen, or even the blunt end of a larger crochet hook to gently push the stuffing into the tail.)

Dachshund’s Face

• For eyes, cut out 2 ovals from the white felt. Cut 2 circles that are about half the size of the white ovals from the black felt. Glue (Elmer’s glue or fabric glue is just fine) the white ovals to the face first, and then glue the black circles on top, like in photograph.
• For nose, use embroidery thread to do a satin stitch on the snout.

Pug Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Supplies:

One skein Red Heart Super Saver in Buff (this uses about half a skein)

Small amount of Red Heart Super Saver in Coffee

Crochet hook size G or H (depending on your tension)

Tapestry needle

Polyfil or other stuffing

Black embroidery thread

Embroidery needle

Small amount of black and white felt (for eyes)

Each part of this pattern is worked in the round. It is your choice whether to join your rounds or not. ** indicates to repeat pattern for entire row.

Pug’s Body

Row 1: Ch 2, 6sc in 1^st ch (6 sts)

Row 2: 2sc in each st around (12 sts)

Row 3: *sc, 2sc in next st* around (18 sts)

Row 4: *sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in 3^rd st* (24 sts)

Row 5: *sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in 4^th st* (30 sts)

Row 6: *sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in 5^th st* (36 sts)

Row 7: *sc in next 5 sts, 2sch in 6^th st* (42 sts)

Rows 8-29: sc around (42 sts)

Row 30: *sc in next 5sts, sc2tog* (36 sts)

Row 31: *sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog* (30 sts) *now would be a good time to start stuffing!

Row 32: *sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog* (24 sts)

Row 33: *sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog* (18 sts)

Row 34: *sc, sc2tog* (12 sts)

Row 35: sc2tog around (6 sts)

Finish off, use tapestry needle to weave tail through remaining stitches and pull closed. Hide tail by sewing into surrounding stitches.

Pug’s Head (in “Buff”)

Row 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 1^st ch. (6 sts)

Row 2: 2sc in each st around (12 sts)

Row 3: *sc, 2sc in next st* (18 sts)

Row 4: *sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in 3^rd st* (24 sts)

Row 5: *sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in 4^th st* (30 sts)

Row 6: *sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in 5^th st* (36 sts)

Rows 7-14: sc around (36 sts)

Row 15: *sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog* (30 sts)

Row 16: sc around

Finish off, leaving a long enough tail to sew to body.

*Tip: When sewing to body, spread neck out so it blends into the body, and sew as close to the front of body as possible (so there’s no “lump” below the neck).

Pug’s Front Legs (Make 2, in “Buff”)

Row 1: Ch 2, 6sc in 1^st ch. (6 sts)

Row 2: 2sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rows 3-13: sc around.

Finish off, leaving tail long enough to sew to body.

Pug’s Back Legs (Make 2, in “Buff”)

Row 1: Ch 2, 6sc in 1^st ch. (6 sts)

Row 2: 2sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rows 3-9: sc around. (12 sts)

Row 10: 2sc in each of first 6 sts, sc in remaining 6 sts. (18 sts)

Rows 11-13: sc around. (18 sts)

Finish off, leaving long enough tail to sew to body.

Pug’s Snout (with “Coffee”)

Row 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 1^st ch. (6 sts)

Row 2: 2sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Row 3: *sc, 2sc in next st* (18 sts)

Row 4: sc around. (18 sts)

Finish off, leaving long enough tail to sew to face.

*Tip: when sewing to face, I used just a little bit of stuffing so it would protrude a LITTLE bit. Use black embroidery thread to create a nose and mouth.

Pug’s Ears (Make 2, with “Coffee”)

Row 1: Ch 2, 3sc in first ch. (do not join, this is not done in the round)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 3 sc across.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2sc in first st, sc in 2^nd, 2sc in last st (5 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, 5 sc across.

Finish off, leaving tail to sew to head.

Pug’s Eyes (Make 2, with “Coffee”)

Row 1: Ch 2, 6sc in first ch. (6sts)

Row 2: 2sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Finish off, leaving tail to sew to face.

*Tip: After you sew these to the face slightly above the snout, use two different sized buttons or other small round object to trace a circle on the black and white felt. These will be glued on top of the crocheted circles for the eyes. They can be glued or sewn, but I prefer just using Elmer’s glue (it’s very sturdy if left alone until completely dry).

Pug’s Tail (in “Buff”)

Row 1: Ch 13, sc in 2^nd ch from hook and across to end (12 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (12 sts)

Row 3: do not ch1, turn, sl st in 1^st st, sc across.

Finish off, fold in half (so that top of last row and beginning chain are touching), stitch to body and stitch folded edges together. Tail should curl by itself.

Puggle Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Supplies:

One skein Red Heart Super Saver in “Coffee”

One skein Caron Perfect Match in Pink

Size F or G Crochet hook (depending on your tension)

Size I Crochet hook (for the pink blanket)

Tapestry needle

Polyfil or other type of stuffing

Small amount of black embroidery thread, black felt, and brown felt

This pattern (except for the puggle’s ears, tail, blanket, and collar) is worked in the round. It is up to you whether you prefer to join your rounds or work in a spiral. ** indicates to repeat pattern for entire row.

Puggle’s Body

Row 1: Ch 2, 6sc in first ch. (6sc)

Row 2: 2sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Row 3: *sc, 2sc in next st* around. (18 sc)

Row 4: sc around. (18 sc)

Row 5: *sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in 3^rd st* around. (24 sc)

Row 6: sc around. (24 sc)

Row 7: *sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in 4^th st* around. (30 sc)

Rows 8-18: sc around. (30 sc)

Row 19: *sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog* around. (24 sc)

Row 20: sc around. (24 sc)

Row 21: *sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog* around. (18 sc)

Rows 22-24: sc around. (18 sc)

Finish off, leaving long tail to later sew to head.

Puggle’s Head

Row 1: Ch 2, 6sc in first ch. (6 sc)

Row 2: 2sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Row 3: *sc, 2sc in next st* around. (18 sc)

Row 4: *sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in 3^rd st* around. (24 sc)

Row 5: *sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in 4^th st* around. (30 sc)

Rows 6-11: sc around. (30 sc)

Row 12: *sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog* around. (24 sc)

Row 13: *sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog* around. (18 sc)

Row 14: *sc, sc2tog* around. (12 sc)

Row 15: sc2tog around. (6 sc)

Finish off, weave tail through remaining stitches and pull closed. Weave tail through surrounding stitches to secure and hide.

Puggle’s Snout

Row 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in first ch. (6 sc)

Row 2: 2sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Rows 3 and 4: sc around. (12 sc)

Row 5: *sc, 2sc in next st* around. (18 sc)

Row 6: sc around. (18 sc)

Finish off, leaving tail to sew to head.

Puggle’s Ears (Make Two – not done in the round)

Row 1: (Leave an extra long tail to sew to head.) Ch 7, sc in 2^nd ch from hook and across. (6sc)

Rows 2-5: Ch 1, turn, sc across. (6 sc)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog. (4sc)

Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc2tog. (2sc)

Finish off, weave in end.

Puggle’s Front Legs (Make Two)

Row 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in first ch. (6 sc)

Row 2: 2sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Rows 3-12: sc around. (12 sc)

Row 13: sc in first 6 sts, turn, sc back over the 6 sts you just did.

Row 14: sc around (going over half-row you just made and the rest of the row, working in a spiral again). (12 sc)

Rows 15-17: sc around. (12 sc)

Finish off, leaving a long tail to sew to body.

Puggle’s Back Legs (Make Two)

Row 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in first ch. (6 sc)

Row 2: 2sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Rows 3-11: sc around. (12 sc)

Row 12: 2sc in each of first 6 sts, sc in remaining 6 sts. (18 sc)

Row 13: sc in first 12 sts, turn, sc back over those you just did.

Row 14: sc around (going back over the two half-rows you just made and continuing on over the rest of the round, working in a spiral again) (18 sc)

Row 15: Repeat Row 13.

Rows 16 and 17: sc around. (18 sc)

Finish off, leaving long tail to sew to body.

Puggle’s Tail

Row 1: (Leave extra long tail to sew to body) Ch 14, do NOT skip a ch, sc back along chain. (14 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 5 sts, sl st in next 2 sts.

Finish off and weave in end. Tail should naturally curl.

*BONUS* Puggle’s Blanket!

Ch 32.

Row 1: 2sc in 4^th ch from hook, *sk ch, 2sc in next ch* across.

Row 2: Ch 2, sk 1^st st, 2sc in next st, *sk st, 2sc in next st* across.

Repeat these two rows 18 times, so you have a total of 36 rows.

Shell Stitch Border:

One complete shell stitch is worked over 6 sts (or 4 row ends; every two rows should have developed a slightly scalloped shape along the ends, so you can use this as a guideline). Without turning, begin working down the left hand side of the blanket:

*5dc between 2^nd and 3^rd row (or between first and second “scallop”) from the top, sc between the 4^th and 5^th row, (or before the next “scallop”)* You should end this side with a sc in the corner, and now you should be on the bottom, where the foundation chain is. There should be visible “holes” from the foundation chain. Using these as your guidelines, *sk first “hole”, 5dc in 2^nd “hole”, sc in 3^rd* all the way across.

Repeat instructions for previous “row ends” for the right hand side working up. You should end with a sc in the first st of the top side. *sk 2 sts, 5dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st* across til end. Sl st to the first sc on the first shell of the left hand side, and weave in end.

Puggle’s Collar! (I used a size H hook for this, but it’s really up to you.)

Ch 2, sc in first ch.

The single crochet formed a “V”. *insert hook under the left side of that “V” (the one closest to hook) and sc into it. * repeat this until collar fits around puggle’s neck.

Puggle’s Face

For the nose and mouth, I simply embroidered them on using the satin stitch with black embroidery thread. The eyes are simply 2 felt circles, one brown and one black (the brown is slightly larger than the black; you can use different sized buttons or other small round objects to trace). I used regular Elmer’s glue to apply the eyes, using a generous amount and leaving them unbothered until completely dry. The black felt may need to be reglued, because felt glued on felt tends to just absorb the glue; however, the gluing twice actually does make it sturdier.